Story & Photos by Barbara Beckley
The winery is in Sonoma. The Tasting Room is in Burbank! Unique concept. And best kept secret for wine and jazz buffs. We get to enjoy curated Sonoma wines – paired with fine cuisine and sophisticated entertainment – just by driving down San Fernando Road!
“A small entrance. But a huge presence.” That’s how my friend, Julie Ferro, described our recent experience at the Urban Press Winery & Restaurant in downtown Burbank.
Vocalist Patrick Barnitt was swinging jazz, backed by a combo, floor-to-ceiling wine racks and crystal chandeliers. KCRW’s James Janisse, “the gentleman of jazz;” chatted at the bar, waiting to take the mic. Barnitt was scheduled. Janisse dropped by to join the fun. We took a table under the wine bottle-shaped arches, just past the Wine Library Tasting Room—and felt like we were in a tasting room in Sonoma.
“Why Burbank?” I asked owner Giovanni D’Andrea, as he greeted guests and talent. “Tasting rooms are important,” he explained. “You need to know the taste of the wine before you buy it. But tasting room costs are out of this world in Sonoma and Napa. I decided to open where wine lovers could enjoy for less. No bottle is more than $100. Burbank, with its entertainment focus, seemed a perfect location.”
And so it is. Since November 2016, the Urban Press has been pouring D’Andrea’s personal Sonoma labels. But D’Andrea wasn’t satisfied. As a business success in the tech world, and self-taught in the art of viniculture, D’Andrea is a perfectionist. He dreamed of opening a restaurant to compliment his wines. To create a space “where you share a good bottle of wine and meal with friends and family. A space to make a connection.”
Going for Michelin!
His dream came true a few months ago – in spades! “Luxury does not take shortcuts,” D’ Andrea told me. He brought award-winning Executive Chef Emidio Tidu direct from Rome. And Chef Tidu is going for gold – aiming to claim a Michelin Star with his Italian cuisine, steeped in personal traditions and French overtones.
Because wine comes first at Urban Press, the food is designed to match the wine. Another unique concept. So at D’Andrea’s recommendation, I ordered the “Four-course Wine-pairing Dinner.” A fantastic sampling of Chef Tidu’s cuisine and D’Andrea’s wines.
The first course – Tidu’s rich, yet light “Fava Beans Puree” and roasted escarole brought out the best of D’Andrea’s “Fiore 2017 Grenache Blanc,” with zesty citrus and dry herb notes. Next, the amazing “Rainbow Beet Salad” with micro greens and goat cheese, was a delicious counterpoint to the “Tutto Bianco 2017 White Blend” (from Grenache Blanc) which tasted of yellow peach, fresh cut hay and white pepper. For the main – Oh my! The light, crisp “Fille de Joie Pinot Noir Rose 2018,” hinting of passion fruit and grapefruit, tasted fabulous with the house favorite – “Fettuccine with Wild Mushrooms & Black Truffle.” “No truffle oil,” our server pointed out. “Better! It’s topped with fresh truffle slices.” The finale – “Sicilian Cannoli with Ricotta,” another signature dish from the chef’s personal homemade recipe – paired perfectly with the velvety tannins and aromas of kirsch, fig and roasted herbs in D’Andrea’s “Forte e Scuro Zinfandel 2016.”
I couldn’t resist two other must-try favorites – Wow! The Oysters – plump, juicy, on ice, fresh from Baja, with three unique house-made condiments: $1.50 each on “Oyster Night” Wednesdays. And lick-your-plate-delicious “Urban Press Red Wine Braised Pear” (soaked in red wine for 24 hours!), with vanilla cream. And this is just the start of Chef Tidu’s large and varied menu. From the Charcuterie heaped with Italian cheeses, meats, fruit, olives, mixed nuts and focaccia bread; Wild Caught Ora King Salmon, and Braised Lamb Shank in Urban Press Merlot wine sauce with parmesan risotto, to Chateaubriand for Two – when is the last time you saw Chateaubriand on a menu? Much less for $98! There’s something for everyone including pastas, pizzas, risotto and sides like Truffle Parmesan Fries and Baked Potato with Sour Cream.
Plus sophisticated live entertainment Wednesday through Sunday. And a choice of dining areas. In addition to the Wine Library and dining room, a crystal-lined staircase leads to a mezzanine-level dining area overlooking the action below, and a spacious outdoor covered patio. The restaurant welcomes events and weddings of up to 115 sitting and 200 stand up.
As D’Andrea describes his place. “It’s a classy joint, with fine wines and smooth entertainment.” I agree completely!
