Story & photos by Barbara Beckley
So. I’m driving through Mission Beach in San Diego… Predictable oceanfront apartments, quirky clapboard beach houses, corner bars. Then I turn right – Oh My Gosh! I’m in Polynesia!
Behind the “Bamboo Curtain”
Entering the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa, I truly am in another world. High-beamed Fiji-style architecture welcomes me to paradise. In the lobby, a lushly landscaped waterfall tumbles into a stream filled with golden koi, then flows under a glass wall and throughout the hotel’s acres of old-growth tropical foliage.
Who knew?! I sure didn’t. And I partied in Mission Beach as a journalism student at San Diego State University. Then later covered the South Pacific for travel magazines – so I know Polynesia when I see it.
As in the South Pacific, the beach is right there. The Catamaran compound hugs the wide white sands of Mission Bay, making it your private beach – where few “outsiders” go – just steps from the hotel’s 310 rooms and bay-front suites, bar, eateries, watersports dock, waterfront walk, event space and the only beachfront spa in all of San Diego!
And exotic birds! After checking in, I followed Tiki signs through the gardens to my two-room Bay Front Suite, No. 524 on the first floor. Along the way, I passed brightly colored macaws who talk and entertain daily around their huge, ornate wrought-iron cage. Rumor says their birdcage is from Disneyland’s original Enchanted Tiki Room. Could be. The Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa opened in 1959. Disneyland opened in 1955. (And as I learned, the Catamaran’s founders were well connected.) These parrots aren’t amateurs, either. Bird Handler Supervisor Jackie Kohlman worked at the San Diego Zoo including the bird shows.
‘Suite’ water and garden views
Talk about the perfect room! My living room opened directly onto the lawn, the beach, the boardwalk, the water and San Diego skyline across Mission Bay; while my bedroom faced the garden for privacy. A fully-stocked wet bar, with a fridge added to the living room’s comfort. I admit – I enjoyed the sweeping view from my patio, and upon returning for the night, cozied up on the couch letting the sea breezes and San Diego’s twinkling skyline lull me to sleep.
Mai Tais and ocean specialties
But before that – I enjoyed the resort. First, relaxing over sizeable signature Mai Tais amid tiki torches, tropical plants and bay views at Moray’s Bar. Then dinner, a few steps away, at the indoor-outdoor Oceana Coastal Kitchen, the resort’s signature restaurant. Since it’s known for modern chef-driven ocean-inspired cuisine, I ordered the signature Crisped Skin Ocean Trout with herb butter sauce, grilled asparagus and mushroom potato gratin. Light, tasty, delicious. However, I was curious. “Ocean” trout? “Yes,” explained my wait person, “It’s flown fresh from Norway. Sustainable ocean-going trout that swim upstream only to spawn. One of the finest proteins in modern cuisine.” And dessert, oh my. The Rum Baba tasted as good as its description: “pistachio custard, strawberry rum sauce and fresh seasonal berries.”
Authentically South Pacific
Everywhere, I marveled at the genuine artifacts, which I recognized from years of visiting Polynesia. As Robert Arends, my friend and Catamaran media relations manager, explained, “The founders took great care to make this, their second San Diego hotel, authentically South Pacific.” From the Papua, New Guinea crocodile carvings and gigantic Vanuatu tapa cloth in the Lobby to first-edition prints of Captain Cook’s 18th Century voyages in Moray’s Bar, and museum-quality spears, carvings and tribal relics displayed outside the Catamaran Gift Shop, Lava Java grab-and-go cafe and 20,000 square-foot upstairs meeting space, all were crafted before WWII and collected between 1950 and ’60 by a partner of Michael Rockefeller, no less.
Originally the summer estate of the Scripps Family (hence, the prime, private location), San Diego entrepreneur William Evans Sr. and his wife, Anne, purchased the land in 1956, then built and opened the Catamaran in 1959. Still owned and actively managed by their son, Bill Evans, and daughter, Grace Evans Cherashore, (who also own and manage the family’s neighboring Bahia Resort Hotel, opened in 1953, and The Lodge at Torrey Pines, opened in 2002), the Catamaran’s wonderful art, gardens (more than 100 varieties of palms and 1,000 varieties of plants) and architecture remain intact – with constantly updated amenities – giving us the original Polynesia experience.
Uncrowded beaches
Morning sunlight reflecting on the water was a perfect start to my second day. From my patio I crossed the lawn to the Mission Bay Boardwalk for a leisurely stroll along the beach and over a small bridge passed the elegant waterfront homes of Pacific Beach. No crowds. Just me, the occasional cyclist and dog walker. Seaside heaven. A few steps from the boardwalk, I returned to the resort’s Oceana Coastal Kitchen for a waterfront breakfast. Then a few steps farther I entered the serenity of the spa.
Asian-inspired spa
The Catamaran Spa’s humble entrance is deceptive – opening into a luxurious full-service spa with separate men’s and women’s facilities, gift shop, 10 treatment rooms including one for couples; sauna, steam, and – the only beachfront Whirlpool in San Diego! Here, Polynesia melts away in favor of an Asian ambiance, with treatments inspired by South Pacific and Asian healing traditions. The adjacent Fitness Center offers workouts with one-and-only beach views. My 50-minute (you can also do 25 and 80 minutes) Catamaran Signature Massage truly was customized to my needs. The skilled masseuse worked my troubled muscles so expertly I was visibly straighter and felt lighter on my feet. It’s one of dozens of soothing choices from wraps to reflexology. Including the one I’ll do next – the Advanced Muscle & Joint Massage with Chinese herbs.
Tiki wonderland surrounds
I continued my pampering in the Catamaran Gift Shop – a paradise of unique, fun and tasteful Polynesian-inspired gifts and keepsakes from cute plush sharks to jewelry, shells, hand blown sea-themed art and resort wear. No surprise. The shop is personally curated by co-owner Grace to match the resort’s Polynesian detail.
Retail reconnaissance of the tiki type also took me and Robert outside the “bamboo curtain.” First, to the BouTiki, an over-the-top Polynesian wonderland within walking distance of the resort. Every inch is crowded with carvings from all the islands, and all the top carvers; tiki mugs from Bosco and other famous makers; clothing, jewelry, signs, chotckies. Robert bought a tiki from the Cook Islands – we nicknamed him “Raro Guy” in honor of Rarotonga, the Cooks’ main island. I chose an octopus-style tiki mug. (I love octopi as living creatures. Never to kill or eat.) Its sweet face looks – yes – like an alien. Second, for a drink at the new Grass Skirt tiki bar in nearby Pacific Beach. Where we taste-tested their “Tropical Tony’s Mai Tai” and “Boozin’ Susan’s World Famous Chi Chi,” and toasted to my glorious discovery of the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa.
A Legend Returns! “Sunset Luaus on the Bay” — The Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa 2022 Summertime Schedule
The Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa’s South Pacific authenticity extends to entertainment and activities in a big way! Now, the resort’s electrifying summer tradition – “Sunset Luaus on the Bay” – is back! Tuesdays and Fridays, June 24 through September 2, 2022. “There’s nothing else like it in San Diego for an authentic taste and tropical vibes of Polynesia without having to fly to the islands,” said Robert Arends, speaking as a lifelong San Diego resident.
Set on the shores of Mission Bay, the luau transports you to the islands, in a dazzling celebration of all things Polynesian: dance, music, food, fiery torch performances, hula dancing and authentic music by San Diego’s own Pride of Polynesia entertainment group. A free silk lei, free Mai Tai and all-you-can-eat Polynesian buffet including Kalua roast pig, Huli Huli Chicken and Haupia coconut pudding, along with trendier fare like tossed Kula Greens with poppy seed dressing, add to the festivities. New Premium VIP Seating lets you upgrade your luau experience and enjoy early admission, a free custom-made lei, reserved seating close to the stage and a meet-and-greet with the Pride of Polynesia performers.
But wait, there’s more. The Catamaran is loaded with summertime activities. To name a few: free Lei-making and Hula Lessons; The Kids Keiki Club (for all ages) with interactive Hawaii-inspired arts and crafts at the pool; live Polynesian-inspired entertainment at the pool. Also “Toes in the Grass” happy hour featuring Cutwater canned cocktails, beer, snacks and adult pops. “S’mores on the Bay.” Beach games with comp rental Frisbees, footballs, corn hole and more. “Movies on the Bay.” The Self-Guided Scavenger Hunt – there is that much to see and do throughout the property. Watersports galore from the private dock. Daytime sightseeing and evening cocktail/entertainment cruises for guests and non-guests onboard the Bahia Belle, the Catamaran’s reconstructed Mississippi sternwheeler. Founder William Evans was so clever. Who would have thought – a riverboat on the bay? It’s been super popular since he introduced it in 1961.
Plan your stay in paradise
Find everything you need to know for your trip to the Catamaran here.
